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Gas And Electric Dryer Components
(Note: Label all wire connections and connecting wires before disconnecting them for proper reinstallation.
Igniter | Thermal Fuse | Hi-Limit Thermostat | Thermal Cut-Off | Cycling Thermostat | Thermostat Heater | Start Switch |Timer |Motor |Temperature Switch | Valve Solenoids (Coils) | Flame Switch | Heating Element | Burner | Blower | Belt | Belt Switch | Door Switch | Drum Bearing | Belt Pulley | Drum Support | Thermistor | Air Flow | Gas Supply
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Igniter:
The igniter is responsible for igniting gas released from the burner valve. It receives electricity from the timer through the thermal fuse. If the dryer igniter is heating up it is not the cause of a heating problem. If the dryer’s igniter is not heating, either the igniter may be broken or it may not be receiving electricity to do its work. The dryer igniter rarely fails, but if replacement is need, be careful not to break the delicate new igniter or touch the part of the igniter that heats up. Oils from your skin can shorten the new igniter’s life expectancy.
Test: Unplug the igniter and check for resistance through the igniter contacts. A small amount of resistance should be measured to create the necessary heat required for dryer burner ignition. If the igniter tests okay and is not heating, check the thermal fuse, flame switch, hi-limit thermostat, motor contacts, and timer , in that order.
Thermal Fuse:
The thermal fuse is a non-resettable safety fuse that is designed to break electrical contact to the dryer’s burner or heater if the fuse becomes too hot. This fuse will often burn out due to clogged ducting or a defective cycling thermostat. The thermal fuse is the most common cause of a dryer that has no heat.
Test: Disconnect all connecting wires and check for continuity across the two wire contacts. There should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).
Hi-Limit Thermostat:
The hi-limit thermostat is a safety switch or series of two thermostats that will break electrical contact to the dryer’s burner or heater if it senses that the dryer has become too hot. The hi-limit thermostat will cycle the burner or heater off if the ducting has become clogged blocking proper airflow. Symptoms are usually a very short heating cycle with a low drum temperature, or no heat at all. The hi-limit thermostat is a fairly reliable dryer component and is rarely the cause of dryer heating problems.
Test: Disconnect all connecting wires and check for continuity across the thermostat or sensor set. (Look at your dryer's wire diagram for test points.)
The dryer’s thermal cut-off is similar to the thermal fuse and the high limit thermostat it will break electrical contact to the dryer's burner or heating element if it senses that the dryer is reaching an unsafe temperature. The thermal cut-off is a set of two thermostats, which will not reset once cool. The thermal cut-off needs to be replaced as a set. If this set of dryer parts fails you will need to check your dryer and home ducting for clogging as well as check that the dryer’s cycling thermostat is operating properly.
Test: Disconnect all connecting wires and check for continuity across the terminals. The thermal cut-off should be closed (allowing current to flow) at room temperature.
Cycling Thermostat:
The cycling thermostat is responsible for cycling the dryer’s heat source on and off to maintain a target temperature set at the timer or with a temperature selection switch. The cycling thermostat is a very reliable bi-metal thermostat that rarely fails. This thermostat begins closed, allowing electricity to flow freely. Then it will open, breaking electrical contact to the dryer’s heat source allowing the drum temperature to drop slightly, causing the thermostat to close again and reenergizing the dryer’s heat source.
The thermostat's opening temperature should be identified on the part with an “L” followed by the temperature. For example, L130 would open at 130ºF. A dash followed by anothernumber, for example L155-10, would mean that the thermostat would close after having cooled 10ºF. Faulty cycling thermostat symptoms could take the form of very high dryer temperatures, blown out thermal fuses, or no heat. The cycling thermostat works in connection with a thermostat heater to achieve lower dryer temperatures, such as low and medium heat settings.
Test: Remove all connecting wires and test for continuity. There should be no resistance measured when the dryer is cool (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow). Cycling temperatures can be roughly calculated with a meat thermometer held next to the dryer’s exhaust duct. As the dryer heat source is cycled on and off, temperatures can be observed.
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Thermostat Heater:
The thermostat heater is often located within the cycling thermostat. However, it may sometimes be a separate component mounted to the dryer’s cycling thermostat. Depending on the dryer’s temperature setting, more or less voltage is supplied to this heater. Low settings supply more voltage and create more heat, while medium settings supply slightly less voltage, generating less heat. High heat settings would not energize the thermostat heater at all. In this way the thermostat is tricked into thinking that the dryer is hotter than it actually is, so it opens at a lower drum temperature. Problems with this system can occur when the temperature selection switch fails to send the proper amount of voltage to the thermostat heater, or the heater itself fails to heat the thermostat.
Test: Remove all connecting wires and check for resistance across the heater contacts. Approximately 3200-4000 ohms of resistance should be measured.
Start Switch:
The dryer’s start switch is a momentary contact push switch that allows electricity to energize the motor. Once the motor has begun to spin, an expanding contact within the motor, called a centrifugal switch, expands to maintain contact after the start switch has been released. Some models that have a “finish guard” or “wrinkle prevent” option will automatically start the dryer from time to time after the dry cycle has ended to prevent the clothes within the dryer drum from becoming wrinkled. These start switches have an internal solenoid to activate the switch automatically without it needing to be manually pushed. This style of dryer start switch will have three contacts instead of two.
Test: Remove all connected wires and check for continuity across the two main terminals. While pressing the switch, there should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow). Three-wire dryer start switches can be checked in the same way. Look at your wire diagram or a chart on the switch for test points. The switch itself can be described in the same way as the above style, but the secondary coil contacts should give some resistance to activate the switch.
Timer:
The dryer’s timer routes electricity to the correct dryer components or system at the proper time. Timers are expensive, rarely fail, and are often misdiagnosed. The timer should be allowing electricity to flow to the dryer’s burner or heating element and motor when needed.
Test: Use your dryer’s wiring diagram to check for voltage being supplied to the heating circuit or motor circuit.
Motor:
The dryer motor is used to create the circular motion required to turn the drum and the blower. The dryer motor also completes an electrical circuit. Once the motor has begun to spin an expanding contact within the motor called a centrifugal switch expands to maintain contact after the start switch has been released.
Test: A motor can be checked for resistance across the start windings and main windings. In some cases a large amount of lint can collect on the motor causing it to over-heat. In other cases the contacts to the motor may become loose and not allow electricity to enter or leave the motor circuit. This can cause the motor to not run or other components to not work properly. If you have a “dead” motor you should also check the door switch, belt switch (some models), and timer before replacing the motor.
Temperature Selection Switch:
The mechanical temperature selection switch is a simple switch that will send electrical current to the thermostat heater through resistors, usually located on the wires connecting to the switch, but sometimes within the switch itself depending on your model. In this way the amount of current reaching the heater is controlled. Some models will use a thermistor and a separate solid-state control board to regulate the dryer’s drum temperature. The temperature selection switch rarely fails.
Test: Disconnect all connecting wires and check for continuity across the switch and all wire harness resistors. If you have a solid-state control board, visually inspect it for burn marks. Use your dryer’s wiring diagram for more accurate testing.
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Valve Solenoids(Coils):
Gas dryers use a set of solenoids (also called safety coils) to open the dryer’s gas valve automatically after the flame switch has opened, indicating that the igniter is hot enough to ignite released gas. As safety coils are going bad, they will work properly for a short period of time, then after a half an hour or so of cycling on and off to maintain the drum’s temperature, they will breakdown and cease to open the valve. This will result in cool wet clothing at the end of the cycle. Solenoids commonly need to be replaced in a gas dryer.
Test: If the igniter is getting hot and cycling off after the flame switch opens, but no gas is released, the coils are likely the cause.
Flame Switch:
The flame switch (also called the window sensor) is used in gas dryers to guarantee that the igniter is hot enough to ignite gas once it is released from the valve. When the flame switch is cool it is closed, allowing electricity to energize the dryer’s igniter. But after it heats up, because of its close proximity to the igniter, it opens routing power to the valve solenoids to open the valve and release gas. The flame switch rarely needs replacement.
Test: To test the flame switch, support the switches terminals with a pair of needle nose pliers while you disconnect the two connecting wires. Check for continuity across the switches terminals. There should be no resistance measured when the dryer is cool (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow.) If the igniter heats up but never clicks off, replace this switch.
Heating Element:
A heating element is used in electric dryers to generate the heat needed to dry your clothes. Almost all heating elements require 240 Volts to function correctly. Sometimes the heating element can short, allowing contact to ground. If this does not trip the circuit breaker, it will effectively bypass the cycling thermostat and cause the heater to never cycle off as long as the dryer is running.
Test: Remove all connecting wires and check for resistance across the two terminals of the heater. Some resistance should be detected allowing the heater to perform its work. If an open circuit is detected, the heater needs to be replaced. Also check each of the heater's contacts to the outer containment unit of the heating element. There should be no connection. If the heater tests okay, check the connected thermostats for continuity and your home's power supply for full 240-volt supply.
Burner Valve:
Gas dryers use a burner to generate the heat required to dry your clothes. These valves are extremely reliable and almost never need replacement. The valve is opened automatically by a set of solenoid coils. In some cases, allowing a propane tank to go dry can cause the valve to fail. However, all other possible causes should be checked before the dryer’s valve is replaced. The safety coils are the most common cause of a valve not opening. Note: A valve you intend to use again should not be opened for any reason, because this can cause dangerous gas leaks.
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Blower:
Dryers use a blower wheel to move air across the dryer's heat source and through the dryer's drum. Airflow is extremely important for a dryer to operate properly. Air that is saturated with evaporated water must be removed from the dryer’s drum for more evaporation to occur. Not all blower wheels are the same even though they all perform the same function. Fast clicking or buzzing noises are often an indicator that some object is grinding against the blower wheel as it turns. In some cases the blower’s connection to the motor shaft may weaken, causing the blower to rattle and shake, especially when you first open the door to stop the dryer. This can also reduce the speed at which the blower spins, cutting airflow and increasing the time required to dry a load of clothes.
The belt transfers the power generated by the motor to the drum, enabling it to tumble. Belt sizes and styles are model specific.
Test: Physically inspect the belt for signs of cracking or burning.
Belt Switch:
Some dryer models use a belt switch attached to the belt tension pulley, which will open if the dryer’s belt breaks not allowing the dryer to operate. Symptoms of a broken belt are similar to that of a broken door switch. The dryer will not start or stops suddenly in the middle of a dry cycle.
Test: Remove all connecting wires to the belt switch and test for continuity across the switch terminals. There should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).
Door Switch:
The dryer’s door switch senses if the door is open or closed. When the door is closed the switch will close, allowing power to circulate through the rest of the circuit. When the dryer door is open the switch will open, breaking electrical contact to the neutral connection of the circuit and stopping the flow of electricity. Some door switches are “single pole double throw” meaning that when the door is opened the dryer’s main component circuit is open, but the dryer’s drum light is energized. Most often the actuator arm of this switch will physically break off. However, sometimes the switch will break internally with no external indicators.
Test: Remove all connecting wires and check for continuity across the switches main component circuit. There should be no resistance measured (a closed circuit, allowing electricity to flow).
Belt Tension Pulley:
The belt pulley (also called the idler pulley) keeps tension on the belt, creating the small amount of friction necessary for the belt to grip the motor and the drum. Dryer manufacturers have used a variety of belts and pulley designs through the years. Most methods of belt / pulley installation can be found on the dryer pulley installation page. The tension pulley can be responsible for some squeaking noises as well as causing the belt to burn. Other possible causes of these same symptoms could be drum supports, or any component that would make it difficult for the drum to rotate freely.
The dryer’s drum can be supported by a number of methods. Some dryers use a rear drum bearing to support the weight of the dryer drum and wet clothing. Others use nylon or felt to pad the contact points between the dryer’s moving and stationary parts. These bearings can wear out and cause squeaking and scraping noises. In extreme cases, where loud dryer noises have been ignored for long periods of time, the motor may no longer be able to turn the drum and a humming noise will replace the grinding. Allowing grinding and squeaking noises to continue without repair can greatly increase the cost of repair.
Drum Support:
Dryers use several different methods and components to support the drum and allow it to rotate with ease. Most designs have a series of rollers that hold the drum in position and a felt material that reduces friction and creates a light air seal for proper airflow. Some manufacturers, such as General Electric and Frigidaire, use a singe ball bearing that is mounted to the back of the dryer drum. This bearing turns within a lubricated nylon cradle mounted to the dryer’s stationary rear bulkhead. Some dryer models simply have pads that resist friction to support the drum and allow rotation. Any of these supporting methods can wear out over time and cause squeaking and grinding noises.
Test: Visual inspection of all points of contact between the moving drum and stationary points is the best way to determine if one ore more components need replacement.
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Thermistor:
A thermistor is a variable resistor that fluctuates the resistance it offers to a circuit with temperature change. In this way the thermistor can communicate with a solid-state control board and give very accurate temperature readings. The symptoms of a faulty thermistor could be an error code, incorrect dryer temperatures, or no heat. Thermistors have very specific resistance requirements that are usually listed on a technical sheet located somewhere inside your dryer.
Test: To test a thermistor, disconnect all connecting wires and perform a resistance check. The correct resistance value must be identified for your model and can usually be found on your dryer’s wiring diagram or technical guide, located somewhere inside the dryer.
Air Flow:
A dryer's airflow system is as important as the heat that the dryer generates. A dryer can be as hot as Hades, but if the moisture-saturated air is not removed from the area your clothing will not dry. Clogged internal and home ducting is the number one cause of long dry times and poor drying performance. Disconnecting the dryer’s duct and running a test load will often solve long dry times. If the dryer now magically works, check the ducting for blockages. Dryer manufacturers often suggest limiting duct length to no more than ten feet, each 90º angle in the homes ducting is like adding 5 feet to its length. Vertical home ducting can also be a common source of clogged ducting and heating issues.
Gas Supply:
Obviously, a gas dryer needs gas to create heat. The burner valve can only release gas if it is being supplied to the dryer. Sometimes gas connections to the dryer can become clogged with too much pipe compound or poor installation. Also some connections can close internally, blocking gas flow. Always use caution when you are working with gas, and be sure to check for leaks after all connections have been tightened.
Test: Using liquid dish soap is a good way to leak check. Any gas seeping from a connection will create bubbles.
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